Sewing, fashion, handcrafting

I wanted to take my time with these because I’ve never made jeans before, but this is ridiculous! I am at a complete standstill on these because I lost the instructions! In this pattern HP includes illustrated (finally) instructions, however they are printed right on the pattern sheet. So, being the genius that I am, I cut the instructions away from the pattern so I wouldn’t have to fumble with those gigantic sheets of paper. Of course I lost them… I’ve emailed HP twice and am still waiting. In the meantime, started putting together a couple of pieces but I’m afraid to go on in case I mess up  the order of construction. The part that makes me nervous is the fly front because of the extended pocket bags. I’m not sure what gets sewn first and I’m too annoyed to think clearly. I am, however, totally loving my little coin pocket that I sewed today. (bottom of pocket topstitching threads not trimmed)

I started this weekend with the intention of sewing up a storm, but thanks to a nasty headcold I haven’t done much. I took the day off from work on Friday to treat myself to a little NYC fabric shopping. I bought some wool flannel and lining for my Great Coat Sew Along project (McCalls 5513). This coat is for my 14 year old niece as I really don’t need another coat. I am tempted to start a jacket for myself also, we’ll see. I bought the wool at Metro Textiles and picked up a few pieces for myself.

First (from left to right) is a silk charmeuse print that I think I’ll make a shirtdress out of. The middle piece is actually a cool lining fabric and on the right is a cotton print with little silver metallic dots that you can’t see in this photo. There was another cotton print that accidently got left behind in the store, but I’ve been in touch with Kashi and will pick it up later this week.

I also stopped at Paron’s and got some Armani shirting (also with a metallic thread running through it — click for a closer look) and a silk chiffon.

I’m planning to use these for an old Vogue pattern (around 1995 I think) that I’ve been wanting to make for years!

As far as actual sewing, I cut the muslin for my niece’s coat. I also worked on my HP Jeans and after three muslins, I think it’s a go. I won’t have time to cut the actual denim until next weekend.

I was bummed about the dress and got a little unmotivated this week. I am back in the saddle now and will be working on my first pair of jeans this weekend.

I’ve never made a decent pair of pants before, so I am making a muslin and breaking out some sewing/fitting books. I need to learn to do a lower body FBA (Full Butt Adjustment in my case)!

Continuing with McCall’s NYNY Line, I’ve pulled these first two out in case anyone is interested in using them for Marji’s Great Coat Sew-Along.  I will come back tonight and edit this post to add descriptions. Once again, just leave a comment if you are interested.

CLICK ON PHOTO TO VIEW ENVELOPE BACK

McCalls 7404
Year Published: 1994
Size: 12
Description: Misses’ lined dress, lined jacket, skirt, pants and scarf
(I still love this this one and have it in a larger size wihch I will keep and make some day without those big shoulder pads) 

McCalls 8453 (pattern tissue cut out on this one but all pieces included)
Year Published: 1996
Size: 14
Description: Misses’ lined jacket, shirt, and pants
(Another favorite of mine. Love the wide lapel and the french cuffs on the shirt) I cut it out many years ago and was set to go, but somehow never got around to making it. Now it’s too small for me but I have another in a larger size that I will get to some day…)

McCalls 9075
Year Published: 1994
Size: D (12, 14, 16)
Description: Misses’ unlined jacket, dress, and pants
(Once again, take away those shoulder pads and you’ve got a really nice coat/shirt dress)  

McCalls 6844
Year Published: 1993 
Size: 14
Description: Misses’ lined jacket in three lengths, tunic and pants
(I’ve never been the tunic type, but I fell for the beautiful fabrics on the cover, plus I got the pattern for free anyway) 

Ok, so I’m not feeling the love for the way this dress turned out but the pattern is fantastic! I had a lot of trouble with this one but it was all my fault. My problems stemmed from my poor choice of fabric — too thin, too stretchy. It is really a t-shirt knit, but I loved the color and forged ahead anyway. It slipped and bunched and skipped stitches like mad and now it seems that the dress is GROWING! I didn’t stay the neckline (already low cut) which is now quite scandalous. Still, I love the cut. Every little lump and bump shows through this thing (see the ridge from the facing?) although I used a knit lining underneath — attached just at the neck and shoulders (see previous post)– which helps a bit. (Thanks goodness for Spanx!)

I also didn’t really think through how attaching the lining would affect my order of construction. I had attached it to the armscye before setting the sleeve, then realized it would get caught at the side seams, so I had to take it apart, attach the sleeves first, do the side seams of the dress and the lining separately, then attach the lining to the armscye seam allowance so that it would hang freely.

You can’t tell from pattern envelope, but this dress features a separate waist section so that the bodice has a lovely nipped in shape to it without all that fabric blousing around your waist when you secure the sewn-in waist ties. I wish HP would include technical drawings of their designs at least on their website. Very often I can tell more about how the dress will fit by looking at the line drawings rather than the photo or illustrations on pattern envelopes. Sometimes the illustration won’t appeal to me at all, but the shapes and seaming shown in the technical drawing will sway me. I will definitely be making this one again. First as is, (except in a heavier, more stable knit) then again in the flared sleeve version (beautifully made several times by Sewing Diva Gigi). 

We interrupt our regularly scheduled project to bring you Pattern Giveaway Friday!

So many patterns, so little space! I need to make room for all the new patterns I have bought in the past few weeks now that I am seriously sewing again. Apartment living forces limits on my hoarding impulses (thankfully). I have tried doing yard sales and eBay in the past without much success (except for a couple of Folkwear Patterns). I don’t seem live in a sewing neighborhood. In fact, outside of my family, I don’t know anyone who sews. (But that’s another topic altogether — see Lindsay T’s blog )

I’m starting with my McCall’s NYNY Collection patterns. Remember these? I thought they were pretty fashion forward at the time  (for McCall’s anyway). The line’s designer, Lida Baday, is still designing clothes, I ‘ve seen her line at Nordstrom’s and Saks Fifth Avenue. I seem to recall the NYNY line being moved to Vogue after the McCalls-Vogue-Butterick merger. It seems to have disappeared altogether now but for one or two designs in the “Juniors” section of the McCalls catalog.

Except for the big 1990’s shoulders, I think these are still pretty wearable. All of these are complete and uncut — and still in factory folds, oh my!.

CLICK ON PHOTO TO VIEW ENVELOPE BACK

Year Published: 1994

Pattern Number: 7058

Description: Misses’ unlined jacket, unlined vest, skirt, pants and belt

Size: 14

Year Published: 1996

Pattern Number: 8149

Description: Misses’ dresses, jacket, and pants

Size: 14

Year Published: 1996

Pattern Number: 8150

Description: Misses’ dresses and unlined jacket

Size: 14

Year Published: 1997

Pattern Number: 8740

Description: Misses’ shirt, pull-on and pants and legging (leggings for STRETCH KNITS ONLY)

Size: 14

I have a lot more of these NYNY patterns that I never made — I will post some more next week.

If anyone is interested, please let me know in your comments which pattern(s) you want and I will gladly mail them to you. I would hate to just toss them into the recycling bin. I have many patterns that I hope to find a home for and will try to post a few every week or so until they are all gone. I’m thinking first come, first served for this first batch. Or I can just draw names from a hat. I’ll gauge by the number of requests I get. I just hope somebody wants them!

Here’s what I’m working on this week:

Now this dress didn’t appeal to me that much until I saw it made up here. It is such a pretty, lady-like yet sexy dress. And then when I saw the original Michael Kors dress that this pattern is based on (worn by Beyonce no less) I just had to have it! I picked up a rayon/lycra knit in a blue/turquoise similar to the Beyonce dress. Unfortunately, my fabric is way too thin and “t-shirty”. I wondered whether or not I should underline or line it, but I worried about how it would affect the drape of the dress. Also I think if the under layer moves or drapes or stretches differently from the outer fabric it will show through. 

My idea is to do sort of a built in slip. I came across this very thin, sheer, silky knit lining at Spandex House I just wandered up and down aisles of stretchy stuff until I found this:

I have no idea what it is called but it seems to be a lining for activewear, as there is a lot of stretch to it . I have made up the bodice and skirt and will attach this partial lining only at the neck edge and armscye. 

I am using the “good side” towards the inside of the dress so that the seam allowances won’t show on the outside. I hope this works.

Oops, I almost forgot… Thank you all for the lovely comments on my skirt. It is very encouraging and very much appreciated. 

I finally finished my HP Deco Vibe Flippy Skirt. I had it on hold for the same reason as my previous jacket in the same fabric — I can’t find a coordinating trim that I like! I topstitched it just as I did the jacket. 

I am very happy with the style and fit. This skirt is so comfortable! Going by HP measurement charts, I would normally have cut a 14 at the waist blending to an 18 at the hip. I chose instead to cut a 16 throughout, because I wanted the skirt to sit a little lower and hug my hips

I thought it looked close to the illustration on the cover except mine looked more A-line than “flippy”. That could be due to my choice of fabric and the fact that I am quite hippy (which fills out the flippy portion!).

I love the seaming detail on this! I particularly like the back yoke. Even with my ample posterior, I think the skirt is flattering.

I envision a couple of more versions of this skirt. I will make it again in a softer, drapier fabric and I also plan to make it again soon in a lightweight denim for summer.

It was a no-sew week for me. I worked late every night and expect more of the same next week so I took time yesterday to plunge into my next project rather than posting. But first I would would like to express my thanks to my blog visitors and their kind words… Peacock Chic, thanks for being the very first poster on my blog! I was very excited to get that first comment. Muchisimas gracias tambien a Paco Peralta — Paco your work is such an inspiration to me, you are a true master. Thanks also to you Linda.  I loved the fabric you used for your version of the McCalls jacket, I take my hat off to anyone who can match a plaid!

This weekend I am working with Hot Pattern’s Deco Vibe Flippy Skirt.

This is my first Hot Patterns project. I recently bought several on a whim and decided to start with this one because it seemed the simplest and also because I wanted to use up that tweed from the McCall’s jacket.

I am having a couple of minor issues with it. The “instructions” are not illustrated and are really not instructions per se but rather what they call “order of work.”  This is fine for me, but a beginner would need some warning and would need to know they they need to notch and clip all those curved seams. The lack of markings on all those pieces would also be an issue for a beginner. There is only ONE (1) notch on this whole design and that is to mark where the zipper ends on the side seam (the notch is only one pattern piece).

The other issue is the seam where the front yoke/waistband meets the top of the skirt front. It sort of bulges out. Maybe this is so the skirt will hug the tummy area better (?) or maybe it is just a drafting error. Though it’s not very noticeable when on the body, it kind of bugs me.

Hongkongshopper (Vicki) mentions this in her review at PR and also has pictures of this issue here at Flickr.
I am using the lining (which is dark brown) as a muslin, so my pictures don’t show it as well. I think if I “scoop out” the curve a bit deeper at the top of the skirt front it will help “de-poof” this area. (Or just make it worse.) We’ll see.