Entries Tagged 'Patterns' ↓

I started this weekend with the intention of sewing up a storm, but thanks to a nasty headcold I haven’t done much. I took the day off from work on Friday to treat myself to a little NYC fabric shopping. I bought some wool flannel and lining for my Great Coat Sew Along project (McCalls 5513). This coat is for my 14 year old niece as I really don’t need another coat. I am tempted to start a jacket for myself also, we’ll see. I bought the wool at Metro Textiles and picked up a few pieces for myself.

First (from left to right) is a silk charmeuse print that I think I’ll make a shirtdress out of. The middle piece is actually a cool lining fabric and on the right is a cotton print with little silver metallic dots that you can’t see in this photo. There was another cotton print that accidently got left behind in the store, but I’ve been in touch with Kashi and will pick it up later this week.

I also stopped at Paron’s and got some Armani shirting (also with a metallic thread running through it — click for a closer look) and a silk chiffon.

I’m planning to use these for an old Vogue pattern (around 1995 I think) that I’ve been wanting to make for years!

As far as actual sewing, I cut the muslin for my niece’s coat. I also worked on my HP Jeans and after three muslins, I think it’s a go. I won’t have time to cut the actual denim until next weekend.

We interrupt our regularly scheduled project to bring you Pattern Giveaway Friday!

So many patterns, so little space! I need to make room for all the new patterns I have bought in the past few weeks now that I am seriously sewing again. Apartment living forces limits on my hoarding impulses (thankfully). I have tried doing yard sales and eBay in the past without much success (except for a couple of Folkwear Patterns). I don’t seem live in a sewing neighborhood. In fact, outside of my family, I don’t know anyone who sews. (But that’s another topic altogether — see Lindsay T’s blog )

I’m starting with my McCall’s NYNY Collection patterns. Remember these? I thought they were pretty fashion forward at the time  (for McCall’s anyway). The line’s designer, Lida Baday, is still designing clothes, I ‘ve seen her line at Nordstrom’s and Saks Fifth Avenue. I seem to recall the NYNY line being moved to Vogue after the McCalls-Vogue-Butterick merger. It seems to have disappeared altogether now but for one or two designs in the “Juniors” section of the McCalls catalog.

Except for the big 1990′s shoulders, I think these are still pretty wearable. All of these are complete and uncut — and still in factory folds, oh my!.

CLICK ON PHOTO TO VIEW ENVELOPE BACK

Year Published: 1994

Pattern Number: 7058

Description: Misses’ unlined jacket, unlined vest, skirt, pants and belt

Size: 14

Year Published: 1996

Pattern Number: 8149

Description: Misses’ dresses, jacket, and pants

Size: 14

Year Published: 1996

Pattern Number: 8150

Description: Misses’ dresses and unlined jacket

Size: 14

Year Published: 1997

Pattern Number: 8740

Description: Misses’ shirt, pull-on and pants and legging (leggings for STRETCH KNITS ONLY)

Size: 14

I have a lot more of these NYNY patterns that I never made — I will post some more next week.

If anyone is interested, please let me know in your comments which pattern(s) you want and I will gladly mail them to you. I would hate to just toss them into the recycling bin. I have many patterns that I hope to find a home for and will try to post a few every week or so until they are all gone. I’m thinking first come, first served for this first batch. Or I can just draw names from a hat. I’ll gauge by the number of requests I get. I just hope somebody wants them!

Here’s what I’m working on this week:

Now this dress didn’t appeal to me that much until I saw it made up here. It is such a pretty, lady-like yet sexy dress. And then when I saw the original Michael Kors dress that this pattern is based on (worn by Beyonce no less) I just had to have it! I picked up a rayon/lycra knit in a blue/turquoise similar to the Beyonce dress. Unfortunately, my fabric is way too thin and “t-shirty”. I wondered whether or not I should underline or line it, but I worried about how it would affect the drape of the dress. Also I think if the under layer moves or drapes or stretches differently from the outer fabric it will show through. 

My idea is to do sort of a built in slip. I came across this very thin, sheer, silky knit lining at Spandex House I just wandered up and down aisles of stretchy stuff until I found this:

I have no idea what it is called but it seems to be a lining for activewear, as there is a lot of stretch to it . I have made up the bodice and skirt and will attach this partial lining only at the neck edge and armscye. 

I am using the “good side” towards the inside of the dress so that the seam allowances won’t show on the outside. I hope this works.

Oops, I almost forgot… Thank you all for the lovely comments on my skirt. It is very encouraging and very much appreciated. 

I finally finished my HP Deco Vibe Flippy Skirt. I had it on hold for the same reason as my previous jacket in the same fabric — I can’t find a coordinating trim that I like! I topstitched it just as I did the jacket. 

I am very happy with the style and fit. This skirt is so comfortable! Going by HP measurement charts, I would normally have cut a 14 at the waist blending to an 18 at the hip. I chose instead to cut a 16 throughout, because I wanted the skirt to sit a little lower and hug my hips

I thought it looked close to the illustration on the cover except mine looked more A-line than “flippy”. That could be due to my choice of fabric and the fact that I am quite hippy (which fills out the flippy portion!).

I love the seaming detail on this! I particularly like the back yoke. Even with my ample posterior, I think the skirt is flattering.

I envision a couple of more versions of this skirt. I will make it again in a softer, drapier fabric and I also plan to make it again soon in a lightweight denim for summer.

It was a no-sew week for me. I worked late every night and expect more of the same next week so I took time yesterday to plunge into my next project rather than posting. But first I would would like to express my thanks to my blog visitors and their kind words… Peacock Chic, thanks for being the very first poster on my blog! I was very excited to get that first comment. Muchisimas gracias tambien a Paco Peralta — Paco your work is such an inspiration to me, you are a true master. Thanks also to you Linda.  I loved the fabric you used for your version of the McCalls jacket, I take my hat off to anyone who can match a plaid!

This weekend I am working with Hot Pattern’s Deco Vibe Flippy Skirt.

This is my first Hot Patterns project. I recently bought several on a whim and decided to start with this one because it seemed the simplest and also because I wanted to use up that tweed from the McCall’s jacket.

I am having a couple of minor issues with it. The “instructions” are not illustrated and are really not instructions per se but rather what they call “order of work.”  This is fine for me, but a beginner would need some warning and would need to know they they need to notch and clip all those curved seams. The lack of markings on all those pieces would also be an issue for a beginner. There is only ONE (1) notch on this whole design and that is to mark where the zipper ends on the side seam (the notch is only one pattern piece).

The other issue is the seam where the front yoke/waistband meets the top of the skirt front. It sort of bulges out. Maybe this is so the skirt will hug the tummy area better (?) or maybe it is just a drafting error. Though it’s not very noticeable when on the body, it kind of bugs me.

Hongkongshopper (Vicki) mentions this in her review at PR and also has pictures of this issue here at Flickr.
I am using the lining (which is dark brown) as a muslin, so my pictures don’t show it as well. I think if I “scoop out” the curve a bit deeper at the top of the skirt front it will help “de-poof” this area. (Or just make it worse.) We’ll see.

Well, maybe it is and maybe it isn’t.

The pattern instructions called for topstitching, but I wanted to use some kind trim (a narrow, flat braid or ribbon). I am using the leftover fabric in Hot Patterns Deco Vibe Flippy Skirt and would like them to coordinate. I am having a hard time finding just the trim so I topstitched it and am not too thrilled with the results. It is a little more casual looking than I would like, but I guess it will do for now because I really want to move on!

Once again I did not make a muslin. There are some minor fitting issues, but I can live with them. It’s a teeny bit large through the shoulder. (I remember now having that problem through the neck and shoulders with McCall’s patterns in general.) The back waist length is also a tad long as I am a little bit short-waisted). If I decide to make the ruffly view A, I will adjust for these issues.

The instructions were well written and illustrated, no surprises there. It is not a difficult pattern to assemble as there are not too many pieces or seams. I like the styling of this jacket. I was especially drawn to the wide lapels, I think it gives the jacket a bit of a 1940s vibe. The full gathered sleeves are a nice feminine twist. The silk tweed blend unraveled pretty easily so I fused all the pieces with a very lightweight weft insertion interfacing. That also helped with the wrinkle factor, but still left the fabric nice and soft. I think I will do the same with the skirt, it should keep the tweed from sagging or distorting, yes?

I’m currently working on this jacket: McCalls M5527. I took a trip into the city and splurged on a silk/blend tweed from Paron’s. It’s a pretty simple jacket and I’m happy so far with the way it’s coming together. I hadn’t set in a sleeve for a while and I think it looks pretty good. Excuse the blurry pictures but it was three in the morning (did I mention I’m obsessed with sewing again?)

I have held back on posting this review because i still don’t know what I am doing as far as posting, but I guess the only way to learn is JUST DO IT!

This pattern is for a very classic sleeveless, fully-lined sheath dress wth princess seaming detail, curved front pockets, and boat neckline. Very Audrey Hepburn/Jackie O!

Going by the size/measurement chart on the envelope, I cut between sizes 14 and 16 for the bodice, blending to a 20(!) at the widest part of my hips. This style of dress has minimal ease and probably a sheath dress dress isn’t the best choice for such a pronounced pear shape as mine, but what the hay. The chic, sleek, and slinky illustration on the cover beckoned to me…
Wild and crazy girl that I am, I did not bother to make a muslin (or even stop to try it on) and found the finished dress to fit very nicely as well as being quite comfortable.

The instructions were very detailed and very well illustrated. I didn’t have any trouble following them, although (like another sewer on PR) I had to read the pocket instructions a couple of times. I loved all the high end RTW tips like staying the edges of the pocket and which side faces up and which side faces the feed dogs when sewing the curved seams.
I also liked that the the instruction sheets and pattern tissue paper are printed just like the large pattern companies. Mostly though, I loved how well drafted the pattern was and how well it all fit together.

The inexpensive synthetic brocade from Jo-Ann’s was a pain in the neck to work with as it was a bit stiff and the edges frayed very easily, but this was the first garment I have made in quite a few years and I didn’t want to make a big investment in case I messed it up! The only change I made to the pattern was adding two inches in length as I am tall and have a horror of showing my fat knees to the world.

I received lots of compliments on this dress and would definitely recommend it to experienced sewers. It is not a pattern for beginners due to all the curved seams, invisible zipper and a good amount of hand finishing.

I love this pattern and plan to sew it again in the fall. The next incarnation will be in a black wool crepe (or dupioni maybe?), probably lowering the neckline a tad (an inch or so). This is absolutely the perfect LBD (little black dress) pattern, the kind of dress you can wear forever!

I can’t wait for more patterns from this company! The only other pattern in their line at the moment is a caplet. If it had been a cropped jacket with ¾ length sleeves, I would have been all over it! I am very grateful to Go Patterns for the smooth sewing experience. It has given me the confidence boost I needed to start sewing again!

This is the first dress I’ve made in years! I saw this pattern in Threads an issue or two ago and had to have it! (Go Patterns 4001) I made it up in an inexpensive brocade from Jo-Anns’s so I wouldn’t feel too bad if I messed up! Review and picture to come…